Fusible Interfacing

I use a lot of fusible interfacing around here. Bolts of it. Interfacing adds structure and definition to projects that would otherwise look like limp noodles. It gives a project durability and a sprinkle of the good part of ready made . Proper interfacing and good pressing is a sure-fire method of adding a professional, finished look to a project.

Below are my thoughts on interfacing and pictures of how I do it. It’s a little goofy. I’ve never actually seen anyone do it this way so go easy on me. Please add your tips to the discussion!

Random thoughts on fusible interfacing:

  • For general purpose projects like purses or a project that needs some structure, I use a featherweight to mid-weight interfacing. Pellon is what I’ve purchased for years and it works for me. I haven’t done much experimenting with brands so I can’t comment on differences. Before I could buy wholesale I’d always stock up with my Jo-Ann’s 40% off coupon. “Yes, 15 yards. Yes, I realize that’s a lot.”
  • The lighter the interfacing the more original drape the fabric retains. This is generally a good thing for my aesthetic eye. I get structure without completely sacrificing the hand of the cloth.
  • On a purse I like to apply the interfacing to the lining of the bag. Fusible interfacing invariably leaves its mark on the fabric. Applying it to the lining gives structure to the bag from the inside out.
  • I like using heavier fabrics for the exterior of a project so I don’t have to interface them. Again, it’s all about the drape. Make the insides stiff but let the outside be ‘free’ to be who it be.
  • I always take the interfacing strategy into consideration when I design a project.
  • Fusible vs. sew-in. Sew in is a good strategy to preserve the drape of the fabric but still add some structure. When working with quilting cottons I find the fabric still ends up too limp. I like the extra stability created by actually fusing the interfacing to the fabric.
  • Cutting the interfacing the same size as the fabric or trimming away the seam allowance? I do both depending on the desired result. If you’ve made the Mail Sack you’ll notice I cut the interfacing the full size of the fabric. The same as you’ll see in the following pictures. That is intentional. Interfacing the seam allowance of the bag lining gives it a very stiff internal structure. Exactly what we want inside the bag. If you visualize that interfaced seam allowance there’s two extra layers around that outer seam giving a nice shape to the draping exterior fabric. On the Note Taker, the cutting instructions trim the seam allowance off the interfacing. The reason for this is bulk. If the interfacing ran all the way to the edge of the fabric those extra layers would prevent a nice even turned edge. Especially in the tight corners. It would also create way too many layers to reasonably topstitch over.

OK, now for my fusing approach.

The supplies: plain water, iron set to high cotton steam setting, and a homemade pressing cloth (one big square of cheap white cotton, the cheaper and thinner the better).

First layer is the fabric, right side down. Give it a good once over for loose threads. It drives me crazy when I spot a loose thread caught between the fabric and the interfacing:

Place interfacing, fusible gunk down against the wrong side of the fabric:

Third layer is the very cheap white cotton fabric square. I cut mine big enough to cover just about any project 100%. It saves time to be able to do all this in a single run through:

Take the spray bottle full of water and wet down your pressing cloth. This is the part I’ve never seen anyone do this way. I used to run back and forth between the sink and my ironing board. Completely saturating the cloth, wringing it out in the sink and then coming back and placing it on my layers. The spray bottle allows me to just wet the area directly over the fabric and interfacing:

Press with the iron. Don’t slide it back and forth. Just press it in a single location until the pressing cloth is dry. Move the iron over to the next area and repeat until the entire surface is fused. Enjoy the zen of fusible interfacing while watching the birds outside and listening to a book on tape:

Pull off the completely dry pressing cloth. Flip the project over so the right side of the fabric is facing up. Press from the top to even out any bubbling. Try not to notice threads caught between the layers :)

Move the parts to a work area for a complete cool down:

Additional thoughts based on the comments:

  • Woven vs. Non-woven. I use a lot of woven when making clothes (which has been awhile!). Matching the correct weight woven (non-fusible) with your fashion fabric results in a professional looking finish because the weave of the woven interfacing ‘moves’ with your fabric. I dislike using fusible for clothing because of the bubbling that invariably occurs after washing.
  • Tracey’s comment about a dry iron vs. a damp pressing cloth. Pellon recommends the wet pressing cloth method. I know there are some fusible interfacings that recommend a dry iron. I have never had success with getting the dry iron fusibles to work for me. I do use a dry iron for fusible Peltex (Pellon’s version of Timtex often used for ATCs) and fusible fleece.

Bubbly results. Janet mentions the dreaded bubble texture in her comment. I could write a post just about the bubbles. A few things I think reduces the bubbles:

  1. I like to pre-wash quilting cottons before using them in a project, especially if I’m going to apply interfacing. When I make Mail Sacks I always pre-wash and dry in the dryer the lining fabric and any quilting cottons I use on the exterior. I do not pre-wash the non-interfaced linens or home decor cottons I use on the outside of the bag. That’s probably controversial but I just like the finish on those fabrics and I generally never wash a bag after I make it (just spot clean them).
  2. I like using the method I’ve just shared above because I think it completely fuses the interfacing to the fabric. If the fusing is half-baked it results in little pockets all over the fabric where the interfacing is not attached. Bubble trouble.
  3. After fusing always flip the the piece over and press well from the top side. This should catch any air pockets that may be left.
  4. If you’re having poor results in getting the interfacing to fuse to your fabric it may be the brand of interfacing you’re using. It’s definitely worth the effort to experiment with a different brand. I’ve had products that I threw away because they just wouldn’t stick.

    ***

    Jen of Blue Yonder Design answered my plea for help last week (thanks again Jen!). The good news is she got the blog moved off of Yahoo and over to my nice, super fast computer at Host Gator. LOVE the upgraded WordPress to boot. Bloglines wasn’t too happy about the move. It refuses to recognize my feeds anymore. From the feedback you all gave me over the weekend, every other RSS feed reader operating in the world is picking up my posts. When and if Bloglines will start working again is anyone’s guess. I’m not holding my breath.

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    57 Responses to Fusible Interfacing
    1. Myrnie
      October 27, 2008 | 10:27 pm

      Wow, thanks for the tips! I’ve never worked with interfacing before, I’ll have to try it out :)

    2. georgia
      October 27, 2008 | 11:52 pm

      Thanks for all the info – I haven’t used interfacing much before.

      Quick question – do you know why some patterns call for woven interfacing? Is there much of a difference between using the woven and non-woven types?

    3. Stephanie
      October 28, 2008 | 5:03 am

      Great interfacing info. I’ll be trying the homemade press cloth spray bottle technique.

    4. Janet
      October 28, 2008 | 5:08 am

      Thanks for the interfacing tips! I’ve been making a lot of purses lately and never seem to do the interfacing the same way each time, trying to find just the right combination, I guess! So I’ll try your tip on interfacing the lining on the next project. I’ve been disappointed in how sometimes the fusible makes the outside fabric sort of “bubbly” so I bet your idea works! I do use the spray bottle with water and spray my pressing cloth like you do. Works for me!
      Thanks again for the tips!

    5. Blue Plum
      October 28, 2008 | 5:47 am

      Great info.! I use a lot of interfacing too. I buy the fusible kind but I can never get them to stick to my fabric. The instructions say to use a dry iron. I’ve also tried your method. Interfacing doesn’t stick. I end up sewing around the edge of my piece just to hold interfacing in place.

    6. Tracey
      October 28, 2008 | 6:58 am

      Kathy!!! You’re killing me here! Fusible interfacing + moisture = kiss of death in my world! Even the instructions state to use a dry iron, don’t they? I use probably as much interfacing as you do, so I can totally relate to creating a method that works for you. I’m glad you found something successful. For me, I use the DRY method, and the trick is setting your piece on a hard surface. I use an old end table that has a thin towel draped over it; it seems to give me the firmness I need to apply pressure v. an ironing board. And I press directly onto the interfacing. Voila!

    7. Simone
      October 28, 2008 | 7:05 am

      I used fusible interfacing once and it didn’t work. So I’ll try your method next time. Thanks for sharing!

    8. Jennifer (mom of four)
      October 28, 2008 | 7:07 am

      Thanks for the great info on interfacing. I have several types in my stash and just kind of wing it when I use it. I used to use bloglines but switched a few weeks ago to Google Reader. Bloglines was always goofing up.

      Love your blog. In fact I forwarded your Advent Calender Post last year to my Aunt in NH She is currently making one for me. She put her own twist on yours but I think it is going to turn out fantastic. I will have to email you when I post about it.

    9. Amanda Winter
      October 28, 2008 | 7:14 am

      Kathy – I have to tell you that I absolutely LOVE fusible interfacing too! I like to make bags and other various things to carry more things, and the interfacing has changed my life. I have not, however, heard of using the cotton cloth and water to fuse the layers together… Thanks for the great post though, because I’m definitely going to try your method the next time I need to fuse some layers together!

    10. Darlajune
      October 28, 2008 | 7:42 am

      Thanks so much for this tutorial. I have made many purses and some of them are like wet noodles. I have used the fusible interfacing on the outside fabric but hadn’t thought of applying it to the lining. Brilliant! I have 2 orders for purses so I will definitely use this idea.

      Darlajune

    11. Marissa
      October 28, 2008 | 8:13 am

      Interfacing is a great tool. I’m glad you got all the kinks worked out with the blog and rss feeds, its good to have you back and crafting.

    12. robyn
      October 28, 2008 | 8:58 am

      I have to say I got a good giggle out of “Yes, 15 yards. Yes, I realize that’s a lot.”. I am forever standing in my local fabric shop with spools of webbing in my hand saying “yes – I really want the whole thing. All 20 metres. No, really. For each kind.” while the saleswoman silently curses me for making her measure it out. SO glad to hear someone else has that experience too!

      Great tutorial!

    13. Rosemary
      October 28, 2008 | 9:05 am

      Thank you, thank you, thank you! I loved this. I’ve been sewing for years and I now understand interfacing! Loved the photos that went along as well!

    14. Judy
      October 28, 2008 | 9:31 am

      Hi Kathy, This was a very timely post for me. I need woven fusible interfacing for a project, and my local fabric shop doesn’t carry it. I can’t seem to find it online (except by the bolt) and short of driving to the big city, my project is on hold. I also need fusible fleece and would like to stock up on non-woven fusible. Any chance that your shop could carry interfacing? Great post!

    15. Coralee
      October 28, 2008 | 9:36 am

      Great post, thanks. I love interfacing and use it in most of my projects, unfortunately I always seem to be getting the bottom of the bolt here. I don’t know if the stores just don’t order enough or if I’m going on bad days, but one of theses days, I will just have to order a whole bolt and be done with it. I also need to say, I love you online shop. I haven’t ordered anything yet, with our first baby on the way, we’re keeping a tight reign on our finances, but I totally will order from you when I can! Thanks again for all your great advice!

    16. autismtymz2
      October 28, 2008 | 11:03 am

      Thank you so much :) So easy to understand…
      even for a cotton-headed ninny-muggins like me :)

    17. Administrator
      October 28, 2008 | 5:36 pm

      To answer Judy’s comment: We discussed interfacing at my ASG meeting several weeks ago. Gosh there’s a lot of flavors. It’s an area the fashion fabric industry rules because there’s such a diverse need for specialty products. I don’t plan to carry interfacing for that reason.

      Here’s a link to an online store that Linda at Craft Apple told me about: http://www.expertstitch.com/index.html

      Now that’s what I call specializing :) She found her Timtex alternative there and really likes the woman that owns the shop. I haven’t ordered from them but trust Linda’s opinion.

      I have purchased fusible fleece at Jo-Ann’s but I find it to be hit or miss. Not sure why, I think it does a great job for certain types of projects (coasters and the Anna Banana placemats).

    18. mikawendy
      October 28, 2008 | 8:17 pm

      Thank you so much for posting this info on interfacing! I’ve only used interfacing a few times (and have used Thermore fusible fleece). I never got brave enough to try using Timtex before they stopped making it.

      The suggestion to fuse the interfacing to the lining instead of the outside fabric is great!

    19. Emily
      October 28, 2008 | 8:51 pm

      i have just made an amy butler bag pattern tha includes interfacing… how should the bag be cleaned? is it only spot cleaning? This post is great, my first time using interfacing i did it this way and it worked great!

    20. MegVS
      October 29, 2008 | 11:18 am

      This is a great post Kathy! I will have to try your method!

    21. Jody
      October 29, 2008 | 12:20 pm

      Thanks for the tips on interfacing! I have been using it with some bags I’ve been making and every now and then I get the frustrating “thread in-between layers” or the bubbly effect. I’m going to try it your way next time.

      Thank you!
      Jody

    22. Cassidy
      October 29, 2008 | 4:19 pm

      Hello Kathy! I envie you. you are so talented at sewing and quilting. You make so many interesting things that I love!

    23. Bekhyt
      October 29, 2008 | 11:28 pm

      What a great tutorial. I have not had much experience with interfacing prior to your pencil roll project, and now in anticipation of making a bunch of Note Takers for Christmas presents (wish me luck!), I’ve bought a whole bolt (yes, 25 yards) of the feather to midweight Pellon fusible interfacing. I read the directions, and was mightily surprised about the wet presscloth thing, but I am glad to read your back up experience about that. So, in addition to the 25 yds of Flexi-firm from ExpertStich.com, I’ve ordered a presscloth :P Currently on sale. One thing though: on the bolt instructions, it states silk setting, but you have done it ok on the cotton setting?

      And another question: I bought some silk for the lining of the note takers. Do you think the midweight Pellon will be too stiff for it (I have been trying to research and the UHandblog site talked about matching the weight of the interfacing w/ the cloth), and should I turn down the heat of my iron from your recommended cotton setting? And finally (:P) — the shop lady told me that silk setting should be cooler than polyester setting, but my iron (Rowenta) tells me that silk is the middle setting between synthetics (which I assume polyester is) and cotton. HELP!

      Thank you again for a very timely tutorial.

    24. Administrator
      October 30, 2008 | 7:08 am

      Bekhy:

      For the Note Takers the Pellon should work fine. You want to stiffen up the silk. For most clothing applications you’d want a really lightweight interfacing so the silk retained its drape.

      You need to be careful with the moisture around the silk. I would definitely do a test swatch first. I’ve made several Note Takers with silk and had good results. You’ve also got to be careful with the heat settings for silk, it’s very easy to scorch it. Again, a test swatch will help get the settings right.

      Have fun!

    25. Lauren
      October 30, 2008 | 12:44 pm

      Wow! Great info – thanks! I’ll soon be ordering a note taker pattern to make a few gifts – just need to make a few color decisions first – fun!

    26. [...] Pink Chalk Studio has posted an awesomely thorough tutorial about fusible interfacing - its uses and pitfalls. She takes the scary right out of the process. Go see what I mean. [...]

    27. IamSusie
      October 31, 2008 | 12:24 pm

      Excellent! I want to know why you don’t just use the iron on a high steam setting. That’s what I do and it seems to work great although I’m not usually using the interfaced materials on clothing.

    28. Zee
      November 3, 2008 | 11:38 am

      How great, it’s so generous of you sharing these tips. I love fusible interface and I’ve been using Pellon of all sorts to fuse bags, pouches and other things. I am glad to wash all my fabric before making anything! I think I am on the right path! I must invite my visitors to your blog, because this post is truly helpful to us.
      Take Care and thanks so much!

    29. Administrator
      November 4, 2008 | 7:12 pm

      To respond to Emily on cleaning my bags:
      I spot clean my purses. I find giving them a full wash seems to take the crispness away. Usually by the time it gets dirty enough to wash I’m ready for a new bag anyway :)

    30. Pam
      November 11, 2008 | 6:42 pm

      I can’t wait to give this a try. I hate those ripply bubbles from improperly fused interfacings. I think this zen method will improve my work considerably.

    31. Bernadette
      January 6, 2009 | 12:58 pm

      Thank you so much for this beautiful tutorial. I am about to make some sling bags using both fusible fleece and Pellon SF 101. I do have a question – do you prewash or presoak your interfacings?

    32. Kathy
      January 6, 2009 | 1:05 pm

      Bernadette: I do not pre-wash fusible interfacings. I would guess that washing might degrade the functionality of the fusible material but I’m not certain. Generally speaking: since the interfacing is synthetic it won’t shrink later when the project is washed.

      The biggest problem with fusible interfacings is not pre-washing the cotton fabric it’s fused to. If you don’t pre-wash the cotton then that will shrink when the project is washed and your fusible interfacing will stay them same. Puckers will result.

    33. Marianna
      March 10, 2009 | 9:06 pm

      Hello,

      I took a class a while back with Melody Johnson (http://www.wowmelody.com). She has used fusible interfacing for most of her art quilts (she uses the double sided stuff). This is the way she explained it…

      Most commercial cotton fabric has sizing (stiffener, starch, etc.) that is applied to the fabric by the manufacturer. This sizing PREVENTS the glue in the fusible interfacing from adhering properly. She reccomends either washing your fabric or spraying it to saturation with water and press ironing it on a towel prior to using a fusible. Either method will remove the sizing from commercial cottons and your fusible interfacing will stick MUCH better. (She doesn’t have to do this most of the time because she hand dyes her fabric).

      I have tried this, and she is right. I think this explains why some people haven’t been successful in using fusible interfacing and some have had a hit and miss experience. I hope this helps.

      P.S. Thank you Kathy for the fusing the lining idea. I am using it on my current project.

    34. Dalya
      May 29, 2009 | 6:05 pm

      I just brought some fusible non-woven interface. I brought it so I could make myself an everyday handbag.
      I often get my handbags dirty from constant use. Can I wash the handbag with the fusible in it? If I do, what will happen? I’m new to interface, so I am getting the idea that the glue will wash off or something, lol!

      This tutorial is wonderful!

    35. kathy
      May 30, 2009 | 10:43 am

      Hi Dalya,

      My biggest complaint about fusible interfacings is how they wash up. A couple things to remember:

      1) They’re synthetic and will not shrink. If you are fusing the interfacing to a cotton fabric be sure to pre-wash and shrink that fabric otherwise when you wash the two layers together the cotton will shrink but the interfacing won’t causing a very yucky bubbly surface.

      2) Do a very thorough job of fusing the interfacing to the cotton fabric. After you wash them together any places that aren’t fused always seems to bubble a bit.

      Before using this on a project you plan to wash I would fuse a 10 inch square of fabric and run it through your washing machine and/or dryer (if you plan to dry) to see the effect for yourself. I really don’t like the results after washing. I tend to not wash projects where I’ve used fusible interfacing or I try and use a sew-in if I do think I’ll have to wash it. My purses usually get pretty dirty and then I make a new one :)

      Good luck with your project,
      xo
      Kathy

    36. Mercy
      July 1, 2009 | 8:13 pm

      I use Interfacing a lot too… Bolts and bolts and I do stuck on the 40% JoAnn coupons as well. Where can I buy for wholesale. I don’t mind investing in a couple of bolts since I go through them very fast anyway.

    37. vanessa
      December 29, 2009 | 7:12 pm

      Hi there, I love your Blog and your creations…thanks for sharing!
      I have a question for you, I have recently moved to North America, well Canada actually and I am trying to find a wholesaler for fusible interfacing, can you reccomend where I can get it online? I would like to buy it in bulk.

      Thanks so much

      Vanessa

    38. Charla
      February 26, 2010 | 7:32 pm

      I was wondering where you can buy interfacing wholesale. Thanks

      • Kathy
        February 26, 2010 | 8:37 pm

        Charla, I buy mine wholesale from my distributors, I rarely purchase direct from the manufacturers. The minimums for establishing an account will vary. It depends on the distributor so definitely check out several.

        • Jeni
          March 4, 2010 | 12:20 pm

          Hi Kathy,

          Thanks for keeping up a superbly informative website.

          Can you provide contact info for some distributors or some info on how I can look them up?

          Thanks!
          Jeni

          • kathy
            March 6, 2010 | 1:58 pm

            The big distributors are United Notions/Moda, Brewer Quilting & Sewing Supply, and Checkers. There are also regional distributors that you can probably locate by googling ‘sewing notions distributors’.

            • kathy
              March 6, 2010 | 2:01 pm

              One more idea, you can always contact the manufacturer for the product you are interested in and ask them which distributors carry their product.

    39. [...] interfacing, so I jumped over to Kathy Mack’s blog at Pink Chalk Studios and reviewed a wonderful tutorial on fusible interfacing that she posted a long time ago and it was just what I needed to get me [...]

    40. MJ Judt
      June 9, 2010 | 12:36 pm

      How can I remove fusible interfacing that I applied ot the wrong side of my fabric?

      • MJ Judt
        August 13, 2010 | 9:15 pm

        I’d like to share the response from Pella. It worked out very well for me!

        Wonder-Under Removal

        Although there is no guarantee that you will be able to remove Wonder-Under® from your garment, as the product is intended to be permanent; here are some tips that have worked for us. If the adhesive is not too deeply imbedded into the fibers, you may be able to remove most, if not all, of it from your garment.

        . To remove the appliqué; heat it up with your iron without pressing. While it is still warm and being careful as the appliqué will be hot, gently remove the appliqué.

        . There is also a product on the market called Carbona® for Glue and Adhesives. This is a spot remover that can be found in most supermarkets in the laundry aisle. Follow the directions on the bottle, being careful to pre-test first for colorfastness, etc. This product will cause the adhesive to “gum” up and you can kind of pick it off with your fingernails.

        . Some people have told us that if they put a dryer sheet over the area where the adhesive is left you can iron this and the adhesive will adhere to the sheet. I have not personally had success with this.

        . If you have Wonder-Under on the bottom of your iron, you can purchase a product called “Hot Iron Cleaner”. This is sold in a tube and you can find it in most notions areas of your local fabric department. This works quite well in getting adhesive residue off your iron. We would suggest that if you use a lot of fusibles, that you purchase an Teflon® sole plate for the bottom of your iron such as Iron-Safe® which can also be purchased in your local fabric department. Adhesives wipe quickly and cleanly off your iron with this protector.

        Emma Salz
        Pellon Consumer Products
        727-388-7171

    41. Lori Hallstead
      July 4, 2010 | 11:07 am

      I make childrens clothing..jackets mostly and I use snaps instead of buttons and I find some of the lighter fusing doesnt work as the snaps pull right out of the fabric when opened…any kind better than the other for this? iron on or sew on?

      • kathy
        July 6, 2010 | 7:49 am

        Hi Lori,

        I like to use a heavier weight fusible myself. I also found that the type of snap I was using made a big difference. I have been using Snap Source for about 3 years now and I never seem to have any problems with the snaps coming through the fabric. I heard about Snap Source from my friend that does a lot of sewing with knits. She swears by them and now I’m a convert as well. Snap Source has a website and I always order directly from them.

        Good luck and Happy Sewing!
        Kathy

    42. Hilary @ KatrinkaJane
      July 25, 2010 | 7:29 am

      Hi, Kathy! I’m sewing some cloth envelopes to use for our cash budgeting system. I bought super lightweight fusible interfacing and some cotton prints to construct the envelopes, and was considering using snaps for closures. Your last comment has me worried, though. Are the snaps really going to pull through the fabric?! Thanks!

    43. Natalie Holt Breen
      August 26, 2010 | 7:51 pm

      I was hoping that you could tell you the wholesale company you go through. I have been looking for at least 75 yds at wholesale price but haven’t found anything yet. If I want 900 yrds then yes but not around the 100 to 150 mark. Please help! Love the purses

      • Kathy
        August 27, 2010 | 2:53 pm

        The big distributors are United Notions/Moda, Brewer Quilting & Sewing Supply, and Checkers. There are also regional distributors that you can probably locate by googling ’sewing notions distributors’. You can also ask the interfacing manufacturer’s which distributors they sell to.

    44. Melissa
      November 16, 2010 | 6:30 am

      Thanks! I wish I had seen this before I tried to fuse interfacing recently. I followed the instructions that came with the interfacing but my table was left with a thin substance on it. Do you have any thoughts on how to get it off the table? This is my dining room table and now it looks very dull. No one at Joanns told me that I needed to put down something underneath it and my project (cross-stitched Christmas tree skirt) was too big for my ironing board. Any advice you can give would be very welcome! Thanks again! Have a wonderful day!

    45. Judith Blinkenberg
      March 7, 2011 | 3:52 pm

      Thank you, Thank you! I just started making bags. I’ve used just SF101 and the thicker soft stuff. I don’t like the heavy stiff stuff for it doesn’t drape although it’s good for carrying groceries. I learned alot from you. I’m going to try a duck cloth next. Thank you again.

    46. Lining and Interlining Manufacturers
      July 21, 2011 | 4:35 am

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    47. Beth
      August 4, 2011 | 12:58 am

      Just used interfacing for the very first time, and this is what I followed! Worked out perfectly! :)

    48. Red.Jodie
      August 31, 2011 | 10:30 pm

      hi, may i share this informatics post about fusible interfacing in my blog. i will state the origin.
      thanks a lot =) nice day

    49. Ginger
      October 8, 2011 | 9:13 am

      Do you know if fusible interfacing “goes bad”? The last few times I’ve used some from my stash it’s developed bubbles a few days later. I don’t know if it’s me or the interfacing. I guess I should experiment with something similar in another brand.

    50. Birdy Market Tote » B.Yazoo
      November 16, 2011 | 10:13 am

      [...] used a damp pressing cloth — I don’t normally do that, but I tried it out after reading Kathy’s post about how she uses interfacing. I’m happy because I used up most of two yards of fabric [...]